My 1995 GTR project thread.

[cortexx]

Well now i have everything wearing properly the worn tires on the rear will now even out , and i have full tread width on the front again which is important . Having a bald area on the outside edge of a tire dramatically reduces grip on cornering in the wet , it's better to have it on the inside . Plus the cops won't notice it so easily if i get stopped .

[frankiman]

What cschepp means is to take the tire off the mag and switch side. Taking the tire to the other side means that the inside will become the outside.

That's what I did on my girlfriend car since she had some camber wear, I was able to use the tire to the point it looked like a slick.

thats what i did 2 years ago and it looked fawking retarded,
and draws alot more attention from the cops

[cschepp]

I was just joking guys. I guess sarcasm is hard to read on the net, but I thought the lol would give it away.

Anyways Paul that looks great man. Wish I had a bigger budget for a build

[collector240sx]

Sorry cortexx didn't want to sound like I recommended doing it, just wanted to clarify what was said by previous post.

And your both right it does look pretty bad, and if you do have your camber corrected you shouldn't have to do this.

In my case the tire were in the back, and the camber was a necessity.
And aldo there time was short in this world, they left there mark. lol

[GTR-guy]

Nice work Paul! Thanks to your thread, I also got myself a set of Cusco Adjustable upper arms. I had also ruined a set of tires in the front. And now with less camber and toe in, the car is much more easier to drive on the road. No more tram lining and wrestling to keep the car going straight!

[cortexx]

Stardate 20-7-2012

THE KNOB AND GAUGE!

Just a small update to keep things rolling and a few pictures for the guys that failed at zoolanders school for kids that don't read good.

Finally I found a guy that could get my last required DEFI gauge - the elusive white face 60mm CR Fuel pressure gauge. After much adventuring Adam at feast located a prime specimen , captured it and sent it to me from the depths of darkest Japan .

He was also flashing around some rare Knobbage a while back and I decided that a new nob would be something I should investigate.

The nob and gauge combo arrived in a plain brown box and when unwrapped looked like this :-



I immediatly pulled out my new knob and admired its shape and feel



Now the existing Knob I had in the car was an original Nismo Carbon fibre unit that felt great in the hand , responded well to the constant pushing and pulling while participating in spirited driving however ..... it was on the car when i got it and lets face it looks like it's been to hell and back not once but twice !!!. It took a while to beat it off and i had to clean some spooge off the shaft ready for the new one...



The new one looks and feels pretty slick and makes strangling the budgie a much more memorable experience .





Thats it for now - I have an absolute ton of new stuff but it's all waiting on the newly built head and block that I should have back in my possession in a few weeks - pictures will be posted soon (tm)..

[bellis_GTR]

A lot cleaner look! Love Nismo <3

[Kunzz]

Looks great...let me know if you have any issues with the new knob heating up if the car is out in the sun for a while. I know with your old Nismo knob which I have it's a bit of a problem. Thanks

[MattRose]

Looks great man! Also, what's that number pad thing for?

[cortexx]

The number pad thingy is a pin entry for the ignition system - No pin , no start car

[cortexx]

Ok this is the calm before the storm , I have a ton of stuff to install but everything has been waiting for the block and head to return from Active engines.

So with much anticipation I went to pick both units up this week and finally managed to remove the block from the back of my truck tonight. I bolted the engine stand brace to it then bear hugged it off the truck bed and mounted it on the stand in one motion with my nervous wife stopping the stand move around the shop on its wheels as i struggled with it.

A RB26 block with crank , rod and piston installed weighs allot , i'm going to be sore tomorrow morning.

So once mounted i pulled off the plastic and this is what i have. The block is coated with a gunmetal Rustoleum epoxy coating which looks pretty nice . I don't like black , makes it hard to see oil leaks etc and I didn't want red either. Maybe for a 57 chev with a BB but not an RB26 :-



It consists of a lightened R34 crank , Carillo H-beam Pro Rods , CARR rod bolts , Wiseco 87mm forged pistons and a custom set of ARP studs for the mains . All riding on ACL Pro race bearings. The whole assembly has been blueprinted and Zero balanced , bearing journals resized after being measured at intended operating temps.

Active engines are sending me the complete blueprint sheet which ill post up here with their permission.

Next is the head that was tanked , x-rayed for flaws and machined to take oversized valves . Again wayne at Active engines replaced the guides with supertech manganese bronze units , supertech inconel x750 exhaust valves (+1mm) , and supertech black nitrided stainles intake valves (+1mm) . These are followed by titanium retainers and single coil springs from brian crower all shimmed to have exactly 90lbs seat pressure and open pressure of 195lbs - this allows me to up to 30+ lbs boost if I absolutely want to without valve float. The valve stem lengths were all equalized to be exactly the same length as each other to make shimming the cams a breeze.











The workmanship by the machine shop is impeccable , going to start other sub-assemblies tomorrow and updates should be coming on a regular basis in the near future . I plan to do a step by step on how i assemble this thing .

There is a change of plan for the induction side of things - going to experiment with a single turbo instead of twins which is pretty exciting . The under hood view will look a bit different at next years skymeet if everything is back together and running in time. There will be less shiny stuff that needs to be polished for sure. Im going for simple , functional and a little intimidating .

[ColinR33]

Oh man, that is beautiful. Makes me want to start saving up for that.

[gtrjon]

If you dont mind me asking how much did machining/labor run you? Not including parts just strict machining/labor im guessing 3500ish?

[cortexx]

Pretty much a list of whats on my invoice :-


Block degreasing and acid etched
Inspect block for cracks - defects
magnaflux block
Bore block (87mm)
Install ARP main stud kit
Alignhone block
lighten , polish and zero balance crank
resize rods at op temp
balance piston,rod, pin assemblies
assemble reciprocating mass
coat block ext - epoxy GMG
install new frost plugs
check oilpump drive clearance
check ATI HB friction fit

Strip head to casting
degrease and check for cracks defects
Mach valve seats for +1 oversize valves
install guides
CC chambers and adjust
install valves , springs , retainers
measure valve stem heights and disassemble for shimming springs
install shims and reassemble valvetrain - check
diassemble for decking

Dummy build block head assembly for 88mm 1.2mm headgasket thickness
machine deck of head to spec 8.5:1 comp
actual compression 8.379:1 comp
reassemble head.

Cost of work $3018 + HST .

[NismoS-tune]

Nice! Now you just need some badass support mods, a dry sump and hopefully a hollinger. Then you'll surely be the best built gtr in canada IMO.