Work Log: R33 GT-R

[PurpleStreak]

Last thing that needs to be done before putting the pan back on is changing out the oil pump gears to a set from Reimax.I will be using the stock 81mm pump for this.

Here is the pump off the block.



A few seconds later..note the absence of timing marks on the gears.







Here is the new set of 81mm Reimax gears.







There's only one way for these to go to line up the timing marks.A light smear of oil went on before buttoning up the cover plate.



A light smear of medium strentgh blue threadlocker went on each screw. Didn't bother with a torque wrench on these so just went a tad beyond snug.





Next I installed a new oil seal. I just coated it in WD40 and pushed it in by hand till it was flush with the pump surface. I will coat it with oil later.





I then cleaned up the remnants of the RTV off the block.



I then bolted up the oil pump to the block, using some gasket sealant of the pump gasket.





Used some of the good old orange RTV and went to town with it.





Then put the cover back on and torqued it up to spec.

[cortexx]

NIce detail , this is a great reference for others wanting to build their engines .

DON'T use rtv sealer on the oil pump gasket , it squeezes out a bit on the oil gallery feeds on the inner part of the castings and will either block these feeds OR break off and lodge in the oil passages in the block or somewhere else critical. This is responsible for alot of damaged bottom ends on rebuilt engines . The oil pump should be installed using a dry gasket .

Other than that this is cool and makes me realise i need to update my own build thread

[PurpleStreak]

NIce detail , this is a great reference for others wanting to build their engines .

DON'T use rtv sealer on the oil pump gasket , it squeezes out a bit on the oil gallery feeds on the inner part of the castings and will either block these feeds OR break off and lodge in the oil passages in the block or somewhere else critical. This is responsible for alot of damaged bottom ends on rebuilt engines . The oil pump should be installed using a dry gasket .

Other than that this is cool and makes me realise i need to update my own build thread

Hey thanks Paul, to clarify I used a high tack gasket adhesive spray on the paper gasket and not the rtv.

Please do update your thread, It's been a while!

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2

[cortexx]

Ohh ok , good should be ok with that , I should get some of that and try it myself , have never used it before .

[PurpleStreak]

Here is some research I did when I was choosing between the Reimax and Spool gearsets for the pump. Maybe some of you technical types are interested and would care to comment and share your insight.

As far I know, the gears on the standard and N1 pump are made out of similar sintered metal.

Reimax comes in two sizes: for the standard pump and N1.

From the Reimax website http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/produc...rea/index.html :



This roughly transaltes to:

In Super N1 Endurance Race, changed to (chromoly) SCM430H has been developed in response to problems (sintered alloy) is broken is normal has occurred, the material was processed by precision wire processing the tooth.

Ok, so it says it is made of SCM430H. This falls under JIS G4052 Structual steel with guaranteed hardenability (H steel).

However, I have taken a look everywhere and there is no mention of this SCM430H in the latest standards. Perhaps it is a defunct spec. However, it appears the xx in SCM4xxH represents carbon content. I was able to find the compositions for other alloys at this and other sources:

http://www.steelmet.in/jis/jis_2.asp

Cross references between standards are found here, among other sources;

http://www.misumiusa.com/CategoryImages/Metric_2006_pdf/METRIC1863-1864.pdf

One can then infer the following for SCM430H.

Grade Eqvt C Mn Si Cr Mo S P Equivalent AISI Spec
SCM420H 0.17-0.23 0.55-0.90 0.15-0.35 0.85-1.25 0.15-0.35 0.03 0.03 -
SCM430H 0.27-0.33 0.55-0.90 0.15-0.35 0.85-1.25 0.15-0.35 0.03 0.03 4130H/4132H
SCM435H 0.32-0.39 0.55-0.90 0.15-0.35 0.85-1.25 0.15-0.35 0.03 0.03 4135H/4137H
SCM440H 0.37-0.44 0.55-0.90 0.15-0.35 0.85-1.25 0.15-0.35 0.03 0.03 4140H/4142H

A quick search on AISI 4130H yields this:

http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=46c258895d8c41ee836c1e6dceae4f7b

You may notice the composition ranges are not the same but close. This is entirely normal when cross-referencing standards and is in fact a tug of war between localized standards and ISO when attempting to equalize their ranges.

For a normal gear, you'd be interested in hardness values during material selection, because that would describe how much energy it would take to deform a material. In this case, since the area of concern is fracture of the inner gear shoulder due to impact from the crank collar, I believe material toughness is key for the survival of the part. Toughness describes how much energy is used before the material fractures. A measure of toughness is impact strength, which can be measured by the Charpy or Izod test.

For 4130H, a Izod impact value of 62.0 J (annealed) and 87.0 J (normalized) is provided.

The other option for oil pump gears is the product from Spool. This gear is only available in N1 pump dimensions. However, it is machined from 4340 billet steel.

http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears/rb-billet-oil-pump-gears-1

I tried to contact Spool about what kind of heat treatment is done on their steel stock but I got no reply. Therefore, I gathered as much info as I could about the alloy and its range of properties.

http://www.ssm.co.nz/sitefiles//4340.pdf

http://www.tatasteelnz.com/downloads/HighTens_AISI4340.pdf

I suppose the most common condition is 'U' , which would provide the steel an Izod impact strength of 47 J, but the range of Izod impact strengths based on condition is anywhere from 10-54 J.

Another parameter that would be applicable would be fracture toughness, which would provide an idea of a material's resistance to the propogation of an existing crack with applied stress. However, there is not much data available to the public on these specific alloys for this property.

Either way, if one can assume my limited sources are correct, and that Reinek uses heat treated alloy, based on material toughness alone, the Reimax gears would be better suited for the application over the Spool gears.

[PurpleStreak]

So the current status of the car. I have been postponing doing anything to the car till I got my head back from Vex. Basically everything has been stripped off the existing head and block, namely the intake manifold side items, to mount on the new engine. Only the transmission side items remain to pull the engine. Here are soem shots of pulling what remains of the wiring harness







Besides this, a couple more wear items were discovered:



I followed Colin's guide to removing the driver side drive shaft. A little bit of difficulty was encountered with removing the driveshaft from the diff, however by persisting and turning the shaft in small increments while applying leverage with multiple crowbars the driveshaft finally popped out.







Also undid the passenger side drive shaft flange as that boot was ripped also.



Also reinstalled the intercooler and piping ( after draining maybe 2L of oil from it)





I have also done some work to retain the Nismo Oil Separator in this single turbo application.

Turns out the flange size for the stock rear turbo drain fitting that mounts to the block is the same as that of the oil drain flanges that mount to the stock turbos. The size of the nipple on the bottom of the separator is ~ 5/8".

I picked up the following:

- T25/T28 Oil Drain Flange, 1/2" FNPT
- 1/2" MNPT x 5/8" Hose Barb
- 5/8" Oil/Fuel Hose
- M8x1.25x 16mmL bolts for the flange





Here is the flange test fit on the block



The hose is cut to the right length using proper hose cutters



And there it is



I mounted the manifold to check the clearance to the hose, might put some heat sleeving on to protect it from the dump tubes



Here is the oil drain fitting finally installed on its new home

[scottygtr]

Nice work! Coming along pretty good

[PurpleStreak]

Sitrep. Have many pictures to share, not much progress overall. But hope to get the engine out this weekend.

Got the head back after its valve job as a result of its initial screw up. Its the first time I actually had a look at the gasket surface.



Some damage on the quench pads







Bought a new gasket, slightly thicker to compensate for the massive milling the head and block have gone thru



Slapped it back together, reusing the ARP studs and nuts, with the ARP ultra torque lube or whatever its called. The ARP washers grew legs and walked away, so I reused my stock ones. Will see how they hold up in the long run.



I then installed some Z32 camshaft seals.





So at this point I installed the timing plate on the head, subbing a Canadian Tire grommet in to replace another damaged one.





So by this point the cams, especially the exhaust cam was near impossible to turn ( the cams were installed when the valve job was done). So in desperation I installed the timing belt to see if that would turn it. Obviously, the whole assembly refused to move. At this point I got pissed off and contemplated ways to get rid of the car and/or reuse the old engine in some way.

But after thinking about it logically I could see that I learned my lesson from my previous mistake and I had been very careful to not allow any interference. The buckets still rose normally and the valves were in their correct positions. I concluded that it was the camshafts that may be bent.

I took both cams out and reinstalled the stock cams, changing a few shims back along the way. And happily the cams now turned freely!

Lesson #2: Follow the Tomei camshaft installation procedures! It is likely that applying the stock torque pattern in combination with forcing the piston/valve contact ruined the cams.

[cortexx]

When i installed the tomei cams into my new head I had the same thing , a pair of poncam B's . After checking things over it was obvious that the head had to be align honed to the correct clearances to work properly , after this was done everything spun over nicely.

These cams are advertised as "drop in" , the reality is that you cannot assume this will be the case as i found out.

[PurpleStreak]

I wasnt even aware of that..guess I shouldnt toss the cams just yet then..

Onward with the build, lots of progress has been made. I had to remove the intake side components on the old engine to salvage them for the new engine.

Removal of vacuum lines



Intake manifold collector removed



TBs removed



Disconnected electrical connections on this side while I was at it



The most despicalble turbo coolant line that I cut off



Shot of clusterf*&k after intake manifold assembly removed



Happily this whole coolant/vacuum line garbage will be chucked





Now installation of the assembly onto the new engine



Cleaned up the gasket surfaces prior



Tomei intake gasket





Also installed the timing belt. For tensioning I followed FSM procedure except later we loosened the tensioner and exerted extra tension via hex key prior to torquing it down.









Continuing on with intake manifold installation



AACV installation; cleaned it up with lots of degreaser and WD40 prior.





TB installation



Installing the collector







Finishing up hose connections

]

[PurpleStreak]

With the intake manifold off I was able to freely remove the oil filter sandwich contraption. It consists of:
-a simple Greddy filter relocation kit with barbed fittings and 1/8" PT ports on the engine side and PT and metric ports on the filter side. I intend to get rid of this in the future in favor of one with AN fittings and PT ports.
- A Japanese oil cooler sandwich plate with built in thermostat, with metric port and O-ring sealing metric to -10 AN adapters and plugs

















Degreased and rinsed everything





Used an SAE O-ring kit for furnishing the fittings with new O-rings













For some reason the pevious owner had used AN to barb adapters for the hose; this negated the purpose of the AN fittings and created several leak points especially at the oil cooler.



Some stuff from Summit Racing: -10 Braided line, braided line hose cutters, regular hose cutters



Braided cutters work great, no fraying whatsoever



After assembling the hoses, I went to test fit the assembly

[PurpleStreak]

Satisfied with the hose length, went to replace the mess under the manifold with a single coolant line from the nipple near teh water neck to the heater core connection ( which turned out to be too short in the end )





Back to the oil cooler situation, I decided to use one of the spare ports on the sandwich plate as a location for the stock oil temp sender. I used a O2 sensor bung for this; for whatever reason it didnt screw in properly without eating the aluminum threads so I ended up cutting it in half to make it work. I used a copper shoulder gasket instead of an O-ring for the bung.





Installation of the RB20 oil filter block





Maximum sealing potential for the temp sensor (thread sealant+copper gasket+ O-ring)



Installed the sandwich plate, and at the same time started installing the engine mounts



I guess the Grade 9 engine mount bolt was damaged cause it sheared when I torqued it





Anyway back to the oil setup, here is the temp sensor hooked up



Installation of the relocation kit. I placed the stock oil pressure sender in the PT port sensing the filter outlet pressure.









Finished off by conencting the oil cooler lines





Installed the Nismo mounts





Starting to look complete



Turbo side - used MLS gaskets, installed the manifold, WGs, turbo. Used a copper gasket for the T4 flange.

[PurpleStreak]

Finally engine pull time: removed the shifter, tranny connections, all mounts etc.





Tight



But doable





To disconnect the tranny, have to remove the release bearing fork and then pry off the bearing itself since this is a pull style tranny





Existing Nismo sports clutch



Dropped the engine off its stand, to get ready for install.



Also changed the CV boot on the passenger side drive shaft. I was sent two passenger side inner CV boots so we had to make a different CV boot work for the driver side drive shaft.



The next post will be much more brier, Cory (cory) came to help and everything was getting done so quickly that I could not take many pictures

[NismoS-tune]

I musta missed something lol! I thought this thing would be running by now and your engine just came out? It'll be winter soon lol

[PurpleStreak]

It would have been, had I not messed up the head. And it did run and build oil pressure as of July 13th. It didnt start on the Haltech though so some debugging needs to be done. Also have a massive power steering leak from its tubing I need to fix which probably happened when the engine went in. Hopefully everything is fixed by this weekend and I can actually drive the thing. Oh and Im ignoring the valvetrain ticking for now where I probably left too big a valve clearance somewhere