hey mitch how much boost were you running for that 470whp pull??
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mitch32 rebuild/winter project
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hey man, i sent you a PM invite for the trackday, did you get it or is the PM system not working... if u didnt get it, just send me an email to: carvideo@live.com
i'll send you all the info, we have a good group so far but not sure if ur down? or u didnt get the msg... lemme know!The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com
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Its been a long time since I've updated this thread. A lot has changed, and a lot has happened.
Here's the specs:
Short Block:
Early R32 Rb26 Block
R34 Crank
Eagle Rods with ARP2000 Rod Bolts
CP Pistons 86.5mm
Rods where fixed by the machinist to be a circle within .0002"
Blueprinted Short Block, balanced with flywheel to 11000rpm
ACL Race Bearings (Rod and Mains) Stock Size, no plasti-gauge used, everything done with dial indicators and bore gauges
Block Oil Drains Enlarged
Tomei 1.2mm Oil Feed Restrictor on Head
Tomei 1.2mm Headgasket
N1 Water Pump
Nismo Oil Pump (not a N1)
Tomei Oil Baffle Plates
Nismo Engine/Tranny Mounts
Nismo Thermostat
Head:
Ported by TK Race Heads
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers
Supertech Valve Springs (good for 10,000rpm)
Tomei PonCams Type-B
3-angle Valve Job
Greddy Timing Belt
Ferrea Intake and Exhaust Valves (some special alloy Formula 1 spec valves, I had to special order them took like 6weeks to get them made and shipped)
Supertech Exhaust Valve Guides
ARP Head Studs
Fully Clearanced and done Head (the head is the best part of my motor I think)
Fuel System:
Injector Dynamics ID1000 Injectors
Denso Supra TT fuel Pump
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Aeroquip Fittings and Lines -6AN
Tomei fitting on fuel Rail
Exhaust System:
Stock r32 ported exhaust manifolds
Tomei Expreme Dumps
Mines Downpipe
Custom Agtronic Test Pipe
Kakimoto N1 Full Mega Catback
Suspension:
NPG Bridgestone Coilovers 12k/8k
JDM RUCA
Nismo Traction Arms
Kazama Hicas Lock
Aluminum Diff and Subframe Bushings
Brakes:
Nismo Discs all round
Hawk HPS Pads (finished during a track day, now I need something better)
Goodridge Brakelines (from the UK)
Turbo:
GT2860r-5 Turbos
AN Oil feed lines
PHR Oil Catch Can with -12AN Lines
Clutch:
Exedy Hyper Twin Clutch with chromoly flywheel
Nismo Clutch Pivot Ball
Electronics:
Defi Din Gauge
AEM EMS ECU
AEM 3.5Bar MAP Sensor
AEM UEGO Wideband
AEM Boost Solenoid
ICE:
Alpine CDA-9887 iPod
Alpine Type-R Tweeters and Front Speakers
Infinity Rear Speakers
Wheels:
R34 GTR Wheels
Azenis RT-615 Tires
Intake/Cooling:
Apexi Filters
Synapse Synchronic Blow Off Valve
Greddy Intercooler Piping
Divided Y-pipe
Koyo Radiator (the big one)
Greddy Thermostated Oil Cooler 13-row
New bolts/washers everywhere, new timing belt bearings, r34 crank sprocket, etc...
There's other stuff, I can't remember.
Car makes 465whp @ 19psi on a Chassis dyno on 94-octaneLast edited by mitch32; 10-21-2010, 01:20 AM.
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euh.. I was expecting a lot more from this built. At least 500whp.Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html
Please follow my works and latest news/promotion at : https://www.facebook.com/Waxxonspa || Waxxon.com ||
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i'm loving the wheel fitment
also haven't seen the engine bay with the coilpack cover on till now, looks much cleaner
to have driven this beast on the track, 465whp is scary, pulls like a monster
cat back is way too loud though, but i think mitch is going to fix this
not sure i ever posted this, mitch's car a couple hours after it got tuned (for the first real time)
Last edited by frankiman; 10-27-2010, 01:41 AM.
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Originally posted by cobrAA View Posteuh.. I was expecting a lot more from this built. At least 500whp.
I don't know if you read the part where I wrote 19psi. Most people do 26psi to get 500whp. Every psi is around 5-20whp, I can add about 8psi (so minimum 40whp more). I also tuned on a really hot day not that I would lose a lot of power but still. I raced another member on this board who has 450whp tuned by Almasi on a dynapak and my car was atleast 50whp quicker and I had 0 traction above 7000rpm. I didn't destroy him but I beat him by 3-5 car length which at high speed is a lot. We raced on a closed circuit if anyone is wondering (drag strip but un-timed).
Theres a bunch of people on here with around 500whp but they are at 24-26psi with water-meth. I'm on pump gas at 19psi.
Yea, frankiman I was going to get a new catback but I just can't. It sounds way too good. I even got sent to an inspection last week by the Police cause they said car was too low and loud. The inspector check it and didn't care about the exhaust, the only issue was I had no rear center brake light.
My car has reliable power and look 465whp is a lot, its really fast. Straight line I'm ok with, in turns the car is uncontrollable. If your in the right gear and give more then 20% gas you'll spin out, believe me it happened to me during the lapping day.
A mustang dyno reads 40-50hp less then a dynapack. A dynapak is a good dyno just numbers are inflated and you don't have the weight of the wheels.Last edited by mitch32; 10-21-2010, 12:46 AM.
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To frankimans video, he mentioned "the first time it got tuned".
There's a long story that goes with it.
Basically the first time we tuned the car (the real first time) my OEM orginal Valves jammed up and caused a mess. I rebuilt and fixed the head with Ardo @ AVFAB in Montreal and TK Race Reads. The bottom end was ok, no big issues. It was 3 valves that jammed, the pistons that got hit at first looked bad but it wasn't. That got fixed and I was very lucky. I also was at 95% duty cycle on the injectors so I decided to sell them to Cobraa to finance some new injectors. The injectors were brand new 700cc Sards. They had like 5 dyno runs on them. I bought new ID1000 injectors, super nice injectors at a good price just need to modify your fuel rail.
The second time tune (which was around when the video that franki posted) my car ran well and then randomly I starting having issues with fuel cutting and rich to lean AFR's randomly. I got some of that OCD so basically I always look at the gauges and then just stopped what I was doing and tried to figure out what the hell was going on. At first I thought it was the coilpacks, but that wasn't the issue. Ended up finding out it was a bad stock OEM fuel pressure regulator, weird eh?!? This is probably why my original SARD 700cc injectors were maxed out. So I got some Aeroquip fitting/lines and an Aeromotive A1000 FPR and went back to the dyno.
The third time at the dyno went well, the tuner cured the issues and I was on my way. It was a full retune, the broken OEM FPR cause my tune to have weird numbers everywhere and with the new Aeromotive FPR working properly everything was different.
When the weather got cold I started to get bad overboosting which is now fixed, gotta love AEM EMS. Also with the cold weather I needed to richen the car cause colder air = more air = more fuel. With AEM though it was pretty easy.
Car runs amazing, its a bit hard on gas but its ok. I have 13:1AFR's at cruise and 11.5:1AFR on boost. I don't think the 13:1 AFR at cruise is causing the fuel economy its just the ported head and cams. Its not even that bad, I get 350-450km on a fuel tank with highway driving mostly, and at the track I got about 130-150km of lapping and that emptied the tank.Last edited by mitch32; 10-21-2010, 01:07 AM.
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