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ive drove it without PS hooked up. nothing i want to get used to.. ya i dont want to use another fan setup. this one is pure sex lol
why run 1 pusher 1 puller??
I had to make it a pusher so that it cleaner the ps lines. So it was mounted on the other side of the rad. Its better then noting/ geting rid of the setup. Its an option I'm saying.
From what I understand, HICAS ECU controls a solenoid on front steering rack that controls power steering weight as speed increases.
Could fit an old hydraulic type powersteering setup from an older Nissan that increases pressure with speed???? Or maybe a non HICAS R32 powersteering rack, smaller length non HICAS powersteering pump, etc???
This article mentions that you can run a older hydraulic or modern electrical powersteering setup -
car is all done and on the road. i have 600km on the motor and there hasn't been any issues so far.
I finally mounted the gauges on my A pillar without the use of zap straps, and thought i would do a little write up.
DIY: professional gauge pod install for under $50
things you need :
- gauge pod from autometer PN#23904($35 lordco).
- 2 part plastic welding epoxy($10 c-tire).
- 8 plastic clips($3 lordco)
the gauge pod doesn't fit that great so you have to bend it to fit and hold it with tape.once its taped down nice and tight where you want it start drilling 1/4" holes and one at a time remove the tape and insert a clip.
only do one full side at a time. i started at the top side because thats the side you can see through the glass and alignment is more important. so after one side has all the clips in lightly clamp the clips down using a cloth not to scratch the pod. and then use the epoxy on the back of the clips. this acts as an anchor and will keep the pod held in place much better then clips alone. when epoxy is dry carefully remove clamps and move to the next clip.
once all that is done, you have to trim the clips on the bottom side so that the oem clips will still be able to engage.
and thats it, your pod will now be a part of the a pillar trim and is rock solid.
so i had an alignment done today and the car is handleing a lot better now and wheel isnt shaking like crazy. took it on an empty highway and had it at about 200 for a couple seconds, man this car is rock solid. so im happy with the alignment.
but.. after that good stretch down the highway i started to hear a noise under the hood and pulled over.
i then limped it all the way home not going over 2000rpm and its sitting in my garage now. ill be pulling apart a few things trying to find it. im hoping its a loose bold under the valve cover..
This project has taken a very fast sharp turn. As you can tell by the video and my comments on Facebook, i blew my motor while bombing down the highway. I now have bad rod knock, didn't realize while driving that my oil temp was at 250 degrees Fahrenheit (its 190 during normal driving) and after that i had constant rod knock and my oil pressure was about 15psi lower then normal even after oil temps were cool again.
if i would have known when i first bought the car what i know now, i would have just bought a full engine swap in the first place and saved myself a lot of time and money. it was a good learning experience i suppose...
so im going to have one very last kick at the bucket and if luck is on my side it will be running this summer still (a lot of luck).
I've ordered a full R34 GT-T RB25DET NEO swap including transmission full wiring harness and ecu.
i picked it up from http://www.jdmsource.ca/index.php i gave them a call and spoke to a guy named Shoaib (sho-hab) and he was super helpful. i did a couple hours of research of were to buy from and these guys had almost 100% positive feedback on multiple forums. so once i seen that i felt in good hands.
My rb20 is already pulled out and sitting off to the side. and the rb25 is getting shipped out tomorrow from Calgary. so hopefully it wont take to long to get here. ill post up some pics when it comes in. until then..
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