Frankiman's street/track GTR project

[Bugsly17]

why are you going with gts rear valances?

[frankiman]

because i think the rear isn't balanced, too much body in front, not enough behind it

[mitch32]

I have the A6 on the mirrors too.

For the corner lights the screw in the plastic does help to hold the light but the main piece that holds the light is a metal ball thats pushed into a clip.

What brand are those FUCA?

[frankiman]

KTS, worth 400$+ brand new, these were brand new but i paid far far less than 400

with NSK bearings, we use alot of these bearings in our engineering projects, there are the best

[SkyLizzle]

Ahhh Frank i always look forward to your updates! Great work again keep it coming!

[JosiahP]

bro this is one sick build thread! keep the updates comin!! haha

[Bugsly17]

because i think the rear isn't balanced, too much body in front, not enough behind it

Ohhhh ok, I thought you were removing n1 stuff and putting on type m.


Also, looks like you dint always have those n1 ducts, those holes in your rebar aren't factory!

[frankiman]

yeah i checked i out today, and the bumper was custom cut alright

[archaeic_bloke]

thats not a bad thing... MOST are like that... only legit N1's had the real precut factory rebar.... mine is pre-cut too, so was my last GTR and so is probably everyone else

[frankiman]

thinking about coming tonight? i got something you might want to propose to you

[archaeic_bloke]

coming where to pick up the parts?... i can't this week man, no $$.... story of my life eh? ill let u know as soon as i can come and get them!

whats your proposition?

[frankiman]

i got leftover spacers for the front roll center adjuster, i thought that using the extra spacers was overkill

[frankiman]

Chapter 14 - Theworkinprogress, week2, part1

---------------
Day 4 and ~5

so i started by removing the snapped bolts from the fronts knuckle

step 1, take a bite out of a home made cookie, for motivation



step 2, punch the center of the bolt



step 3, using a small drill bit, drill as deap as possible in the center of the bolt





step 4, using a magnet to clean the shavings is pretty helpfull in keeping your work bench clean

then use bigger and bigger drill bits till your hole is about 1/2 the diameter of the bolt



step 5, choose the largest extractor that fits into the whole, then gently punch it in





step 6, using the right spanner, or vise-grips as i did, then turn counter-clockwise, the extractor will dig into the bolt and it will un-screw out



results, bolt #1



bolt #2



bolt #3 on 2nd knuckle is simply rinse-repeat

end with another bite of cookie to celebrate a job well done



then got brand new bolts to replace the snapped ones




new parts, Moonface front roll center adjuster



japanese-only instructions



then, screw the nut onto the outter ball joint studs, flat to the end of the stud, then punch it out with a heavy metal mechanic's style hammer



punch the other out



new vs old hardware,
then after a scientific comparison, i found out those studs are exactly the same as the wheel studs, and are in perfect condition



how it looks on,
didn't use the extra spacer, since my car won't be hella-flush low-as-fawk style, so it would have been overkill

knuckles now hyper clean



then took out the new Cusco ajustable tension rods



then my Cusco ajustable tension rod pipe


japan-only use, LOLz


and my KTS adjustable front upper control arms, with NSK japanese bearings



and my new Whiteline ajustable front sway bar

this sway bar is the same size as the stock one, but much heavier, because the OEM bar is hollow and the WL bar is full, so much stiffer AND adjustable ends



Moonface use fawking stupid sockets screws that are inaccessible when the front half shaft are fitted into the hubs,
so you have to bolt them without the FUCA attached so you can pull the half-shaft out



and the Cusco tension rods were pretty hard to fit into the subframe brackets, i had to tap them in with a rubber mallet

anyway, everything fitted





and the tension rod pipe is hella tight to fit, i tried to shorten it with the adjustment, but couldn't go all the way, so i took i apart to find some of the threads had a little bit rust inside, greased it all and put it back together and worked fine, then i had to spend 15 munites tighteninig the adjustment part with a wescott wrench, since i didn't have the odd sized wrench for it (21mm i think)



weirdly, i have to slightly drill out the forward holes on both side of the swaybar for the endlinks to go through





-----------------------------
day ~5 and 6

after i found a very small paint chip on my front passenger fender, i went mad, then taped 1/2'' of foam on it to protect it, since its so close to my work bench

then, i did another Seafoam treatment, since i didn't do it the exact right way the first time

[YOUTUBE]<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/L0ThVPSE0To&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/L0ThVPSE0To&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>[/YOUTUBE]



then i went to my dad;
me; ''would you like to participate to my ''save the hammers'' foundation?''
dad; ''wtf is that?''
me; ''its a group buy on tie rod puller, so i can stop hammer the fawk out of them''
dad; ''how is it a group buy?''
me; ''well as a group, you give me money and i go to the store to buy the tools''
dad; ''.......sure''

its pretty much the only tools we didn't have


started working on the rear suspension





first, took off my Cusco rear strut tower bar



no-mo' handbrake



then everything off on driver side



super dirty wheel bearings, crusted grease




then, i remembered Josh's build, where he cleaned alot of stuff around the fuel filler neck, so i did the same

holy shiit!



i took most of the stuff off with a brush, alot of stuff




------------------------------------
day 7

while listening the to Habs VS Penguins game#4, i got into taking the whole exhaust system out, by myself, with very little room under the car
i took me all evening almost



started by removing the dump-pipe to down-pipe nuts, with a super long exention and a u-joint, it was a real PITA, mostly because the car was only 18inches off the ground and well... i'm built like a football player, i couldn't sit on my side, so i had to work with only 1 hand



then i loosen all the hangars and kept the exhaust in place with a jack



then i snapped a bolt (yeah again) joining the downpipe to the cat, because i couldn't get the cat's hanger/bracket out of where it was, so i couldn't take the downpipe out on its own anymore

so i slowly descended the cat-back with the jack and suddently the downpipe just fell out



then opened the garage door and slid the cat-back outside

pure win @ 11pm



empty space



and capped of the day by removing the rear sway bar



at the end of day 7, bunch of stuff

[frankiman]

Chapter 14 - Theworkinprogress, week2, part2

-----------------------------
day 8

spent most of day 8 dropping off stuff at shops;

on day 7 i went to Autoworx with a friend to drop off his Z32 for an inspection, dropped off my test pipe to have a wideband sensor bung welded

then picked it up the next morning, and test-fitted my new wideband sensor



Turboquip, i spent over an hour to design my new custom brake lines with their catalog, and they fawking don't have 90deg m10x1 fittings, so i had to go with a bunch of adapters and stuff... anyway, will be covered next week (as i am picking them up tomorrow, from the time i'm writing this)

Selex Suspension, where i dropped off my HKS coilovers for a reconditionning and dyno test

picked up some more new grade8 bolts washers and nuts at Quebec Bolt industries


---------------------

then went back to work on the car for a bit

got my new Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar, and my god thats alot of hardware, as the kit comes with its own endlinks



greased up the bushings with the provided grease pack, and bolted it in place



and found it came very very close to the rear diff's yoke



then i removed the catalyser from the exhaust, to find it had an interesting color insisde, on the intake side



then tried to cut the snapped bolt to get it off the cat

started with a metal hand saw, didn't quite work



then put it in a vice, to try to un-screw just the nut, ended up stripping the nut as it was jammed hard



fawk that, power tools, i took out my air powered disc cutter
don't forget to wear eye protection kids



there we go... results



win



so thats that... end of week 2
alot of work was done, still much more to go, i got 6 weeks left to finish this build and get the car tuned

[SkyLizzle]

Frank i wish you lived in Ontario man! hahah so feel free to move to TO would love to be there during all of this epicness!!! keep it commin!